Our ‘Swan Song’

The last full day of our epic ‘Saga of Ice and Fire’ cruise found us sailing south along the UK east coast, passing the Yorkshire promontory of Flamborough Head, before approaching the East Anglian coastline several hours later. The day provided a last chance to admire the seabirds that have become so familiar to us and marvel at their supreme power of flight in this harsh environment. Storm Petrel, Manx Shearwater, Puffin, Guillemot, Gannet, Fulmar, Kittiwake, Common Tern and a variety of gulls all graced us with a flypast at some stage during the day, giving our passengers a final opportunity to test out their improving identification skills. A couple of Harbour Porpoise popped up briefly, reminding us that despite the wind farms, the gas platforms and the busy shipping lanes, we still share the North Sea with marine life.

Harbour Porpoise

Today also provided a chance for reflection, especially as Emma and I were delivering a presentation on the wildlife we had sighted throughout the voyage. An expectant crowd had gathered early in the luxurious Darwin lounge and it was a delightful privilege to speak to so many friendly faces, many of whom we had got to know extremely well over the two weeks. I showed many images of the birds, marine mammals and scenery that we had photographed, and I talked about the memories of each sighting, the identification criteria for each species and some of the ecological issues pertinent to their survival. Emma then talked about the work that we do for Marinelife and the impact that we are trying to achieve through our research and education programmes.

Throughout the two weeks onboard we have been inundated with questions about Marinelife’s work and everyone who has approached us has been most impressed by the way that Marinelife conducts its scientific research surveys. Moreover, the passengers have all relished the enthusiasm and dedication which Emma and I have shown as we’ve conducted our education programme and we spent today humbly shaking many people’s hands as they offered their appreciation and praise for the work we’ve done. I am convinced that our ‘Swans’ will be going home and telling everyone they know about what they learned of the wildlife out at sea, and of the work that Marinelife does. The children and grandchildren they will speak to will hopefully become supporters of the charity and help to spread the vital conservation message that our world’s oceans require urgent protection.

And finally, as the last day drew to a close, each of the Guest Speakers was invited to share a five minute reflection of the cruise with the passengers. Sharing the stage with such eminent figures as Dr Hugh Doherty, Dr Peter Cattermole and the Right Reverend Stephen Platten, Emma and I felt honoured to talk about our highs and lows, the wonderful sights we’d encountered and the fun we’d had with the fabulous crew. But most of all, we wanted to convey our appreciation for the support given by the passengers themselves, as they had become wildlife enthusiasts and budding birders too. They had seen the birds and animals, and many had even seen some which we had missed, and all had relished the profound enjoyment which can be experienced from the fascinating natural history out at sea.

Minerva will be returning to Iceland and visiting St Kilda on MIN110721 (21 July - 05 August 2011).

Fringe Festival Fun

After docking bow-to-bow with the retired royal yacht HMS Britannia in Leith, Edinburgh, the Minerva ‘Swans’ disembarked for a whole day of sightseeing around the Scottish capital city. Emma and I joined them to explore the Fringe Arts festival, but not before we’d spotted Common Terns, Grey Herons and Cormorants around the docks!

The frequent courtesy buses ensured that we could return to the ship whenever our aching feet demanded it, so after a day of pacing the historic cobbles of the ‘royal mile’ amid the throngs of festival attendees, we headed back to update our blog and edit the photographs in preparation for our lecture tomorrow which will review the highs and lows of the trip.

As dusk fell, we departed through the ingenious lock system of Leith docks and ventured back out to sea, past Bass Rock (which unfortunately was in darkness) to head south overnight. Our last full day on the waves beckons, and our last chance to add to the wildlife sightings…

Minerva will be returning to Iceland and visiting St Kilda on MIN110721 (21 July - 05 August 2011).

The ones that got away....

A very quiet day at sea today as the Minerva made her way steadily southwards past the Orkney Isles and on to sail down the east coast of mainland Scotland. The Captain brought us as close as he was allowed to the Old Man of Hoy (the bizarre rock column created by years of tidal erosion), and the sea began to calm a little, ensuring a smooth voyage.

Old Man of Hoy

The Bridge however became rather busy, as the Captain opened up access to all passengers, and we had a steady stream of intrigued and interested ‘Swans’ who were amazed by the fabulous view and myriad of console buttons. Emma and I are certainly very grateful to Swan Hellenic and Captain Biasutti for allowing us unlimited access to the Bridge throughout the voyage as it has made a huge difference to the effectiveness with which we can work, and we consider ourselves very privileged to have worked alongside the Bridge crew each day.

The Captain had given specific instructions to ensure that no-one touched any of the console buttons, especially the ‘big red one’, but his most serious demand, the one which none dared challenge, was that nobody, and he really meant NOBODY, was to touch his stash of PG tips!

A small amount of ‘liquid sunshine’ did nothing to dampen anyone’s spirits and the excitement increased further when the Captain suddenly yelled across the Bridge that he had seen a fin in front of the bows. Emma spotted the animal very briefly but I was looking in completely the wrong direction! From the very restricted views obtained Emma thought it was most likely an Orca but despite much scanning and searching in our wake we failed to relocate it. Sometimes cetacean watching can be extremely frustrating!

Fulmar

Worse still, a little later in the afternoon, just as Emma and I left the Bridge for a quick visit to the restaurant for a bite to eat, the passengers on the Bridge spotted a small group of dolphins heading straight into the bows. Our ‘Swans’ took great pride in excitedly describing how Emma and I had missed them by mere seconds!

Still, we did manage to see six European Storm petrels, two Manx Shearwaters, and our usual host of accompanying Fulmars, Kittiwakes and Gannets. A few Arctic Terns were seen as we neared the Orkneys and Puffin numbers built up, but there were no new birds seen all day.

Tomorrow we dock in Leith, Edinburgh, so we suspect there will be little in way of cetacean sightings, but with the Fringe Festival and a variety of excursions to choose from we are all looking forward to some alternative sights!

Minerva will be returning to Iceland and visiting St Kilda on MIN110721 (21 July - 05 August 2011).

A Difficult Day

Having spent the majority of our lives observing cetaceans and seabirds in their natural, wild and free state all over the world, both Emma and I have found today extremely challenging indeed. Our passion for working with marine mammals has been clear for all to see whilst onboard the MV Minerva, as we are heavily involved in the protection (and rescue) of cetaceans, and take pride in being extremely enthusiastic when helping people to experience the thrill of seeing these majestic animals as free spirits in their natural environment. And so our emotions ran particularly high today, and at times we struggled to maintain our composure, as we had docked in Torshavn, the capital of the Faeroe Islands. This is the home of awesome towering sea cliffs, quaint fishing villages, and mist-shrouded mountains, but also home to the ‘grind’; one of the most brutal whale and dolphin hunts still practised anywhere in the world today.

The morning had begun with Emma delivering yet another powerful lecture on contemporary whaling. Passengers were presented with carefully selected slides showing the least graphic images of the horrors to which the animals are subjected as they are driven against the beaches around the Faeroes and slaughtered with blunt hooks pulled through their sensitive blowholes. Emma professionally explained both sides of the contentious arguments, exploring the pro-whaling lobby’s reasons for continued hunting and taking the audience through the unsustainable statistics of annual cetacean catches. Moreover, she was careful to ensure that the arguments in favour of traditional aboriginal subsistence whaling were explained so that our ‘Swans’ were presented with a balanced summary of the facts, with no rhetorical spin or bias. Arguably of most concern however, was the delivery of the fact that over 650 Pilot Whales have been killed during the four weeks prior to our arrival, and of the ironic poignancy that we have seen none at all during our voyage…

And so we disembarked the Minerva for our variety of excursions around these beautiful islands, but with recurring images of what happens to any small whales or dolphins that might move into Faeroese waters, fresh in our minds. Emma and I accompanied passengers on a boat trip along the stunning coastline and I gave a commentary about the birds we were watching, their ecology, identification criteria and population issues. The Faeroese still hunt species like Puffins, but with the devastating breeding season this year it seems that culling has been stopped, for this year at least. We saw Ravens, Shags, Black Guillemots, Hooded Crows, Rock Pipits, Wheatears, Gannets, Kittiwakes and Herring Gulls as we were expertly taken through a labyrinth of tunnels and rock formations that towered above us on all sides. At times it really was breathtaking!

Vestmanna Cliffs

On return to the coach our Faeroese guide began a commentary as we headed back towards Minerva, about the islands, and we stopped for coffee and cake above an idyllic coastal village, surrounded by little wild flowers and sheep. However, as soon as we set off again, he announced to everyone that the beach we had just overlooked had been the site where two weeks earlier a ‘grind’ had taken place and 71 Pilot Whales had been killed. There was stunned silence on the coach.

Site of a recent drive hunt

It soon transpired that both our guide and boat driver had taken part in grinds and were very open to discuss it with our passengers. They believe that the grind is an essential part of their traditional history and is easily sustainable, although they were completely unable to provide the evidence to prove that the populations remain unaffected…

The only positive comment he made was that the young people in the Faeroes are now refusing to eat the Pilot Whale meat as they are beginning to understand the arguments put forward by the anti-whaling nations. The big question is, will the tide turn quickly enough before the north east Atlantic population is decimated beyond recovery?

It was a very difficult day indeed…

Minerva will be returning to Iceland and visiting St Kilda on MIN110721 (21 July - 05 August 2011).

Whales all around

After four days of land-based excursions, Emma and I woke early, excited at the prospect of a whole day back out at sea, observing from the Bridge alongside the ever-optimistic Captain Biasutti. And despite long periods of scanning an endless horizon of emptiness, the passengers on the outer decks were treated to some thrilling moments of adrenalin-inducing sightings as the day progressed. Moreover, Emma’s lecture on the History of Whaling was to become the focal point of discussion amongst the ‘Swans’ as it raised plenty of interesting questions about the nature and impact of whaling, both traditional and modern.

Fulmar

The day began with several passenger reports of small whales (which sounded like Minkes from their very accurate descriptions) but our primary focus was on the morning presentation. Emma’s excellent research and knowledge was very much appreciated by the many passengers who attended, as well as those who listened on the televised broadcast in their cabins, and it sparked an immediate response from those who had been emotionally affected. Emma and I spent a great deal of time answering questions and helping the passengers to explore the many contentious issues surrounding whaling. The discussions continued throughout the day, especially as Iceland, the country we had all so recently enjoyed, and the Faeroes, to where we are headed next, are both such significant protagonists.

After lunch, Emma and I conducted a dedicated deck watch and not soon after I radioed from the Bridge that we had entered water in excess of 450 metres (and were therefore in similar depths to the sightings of Fin Whales from last week), one of the passengers reported seeing a handful of blows on the horizon. Several minutes passed before the animals re-surfaced, and luckily we were able to ensure that almost everybody on the outer decks had fabulous views of the six Fin Whales that swam down our port side. They were all in close proximity to each other as a very tight pod and remained on the surface for several minutes as they re-oxygenated.

Fin Whale

We had to wait for two more hours until we had our next sighting, but this really took us both by surprise, as Emma was busy revising her presentation for tomorrow on Modern Whaling, and I was writing the blog. Suddenly, as I happened to glance up from the laptop screen, a whale surged out of the water not forty metres from the bows, right in front of the Bridge wing where we were positioned. I tumbled off my stool as I scrambled for the camera and shouted to Emma to announce it to the passengers. Luckily the Captain was on hand and expertly guided the ship to position us a safe distance from the animal and as it surfaced again we were able to see the distinctive dorsal fin and pointed rostrum of a Minke Whale. Emma managed to announce the sighting and we remained behind the cetacean to avoid causing any disturbance as it continued to surface, allowing the excited passengers on the outer decks the opportunity to see it well.

Minke Whale

As the evening advanced upon us, information was received from the internet that the aurora borealis (northern lights) had been visible recently and we were extremely hopeful of an atmospheric conclusion to the day. Several ‘Swans’ remained on deck long into the early hours of the morning hoping to catch a glimpse of the flickering show but unfortunately there was a little too much cloud cover. The moon, however, did make an appearance, providing a profoundly beautiful sight with which to fall asleep and dream of future cetacean sightings…

Moon

Minerva will be returning to Iceland and visiting St Kilda on MIN110721 (21 July - 05 August 2011).

Whooshing whales and fiesty Fulmars

For many of the Swan Hellenic passengers, today was arguably the highlight of their ‘Sagas of Ice and Fire’ adventure. Having docked early this morning in Akureyri in northern Iceland, the excursions headed off in different directions: one to Lake Myvatn, one to Godafoss Falls and one to go whale watching from Husavik. Emma and I opted for the latter in the hope that it may provide a close encounter with cetaceans. The research we’d done indicated that sightings during the previous seven days had included Blue Whale, so we kept our fingers (and toes!) firmly crossed…

Arriving at the little harbour, we saw an impressive number of tourists queuing for the flotilla of sturdy wooden boats, and immediately realised the potential of the whale-watching industry to triumph over the hunters. With expectant faces smiling and waving, the fleet of boats set off into the vast fjord to search for cetacean activity.

We were given a quick guide to the use of directions when on a whale-watching boat, and Emma and I sat back with immense satisfaction during the ‘test’ as all of our ‘Swans’ were immediately able to point in the 2 o’clock direction, or the 7 o’clock direction on cue; we’ve clearly trained them well!

A handful of Puffins fluttered and belly-flopped out of our way as we headed out in near perfect calm conditions, and it wasn’t long before the first shout of “Whale… one o’clock,” was bellowed right down my ear by Emma! Everyone onboard leapt to their feet and rushed to the sides as we watched a superb ten metre Minke Whale slice effortlessly through the water three times before diving.

Minke Whale

Three minutes passed. Then four. Then five. After eight minutes we assumed the whale had moved off elsewhere, and just as the passengers began to take their seats I spotted the distinctive roll of the animal about 40 metres away. “Minke at two o’clock,” I yelled (a satisfying retaliation to Emma’s earlier deafening screech) and everyone again launched themselves to the sides to get a cracking view of the impressive cetacean as it surfaced twice more in quick succession.

Emma and I began to excitedly answer a wide variety of interesting questions from our ‘Swans’ about the Minke’s ecology and identification, and it wasn’t long before midway through a sentence I spotted a tiny triangular dorsal fin pop up 30 metres away. A delightful Harbour Porpoise was swimming right in front of us and everyone was able to get fabulous views, especially as we could even see the trail of bubbles and miniature fluke prints allowing us to track its underwater progress before it surfaced to breathe. At one stage we could even hear its short whispered breath; a real treat!

Harbour Porpoise

After hot chocolate and cake we headed over towards the coastline on the western flank of the fjord and as we sailed through a short squally shower I spotted a spectacular adult Long-tailed Skua cruising overheard with two full tail streamers stretched out gracefully behind. Out of range and a little early for this species, it was a very welcome surprise, but unfortunately I didn’t have time to grab a photograph as the camera was sheltering from the rain. And then, as soon as the shower ceased, another shout of “Whale” reverberated from our boat. Someone had spotted a cetacean close by, somewhere along the visible line separating the salt water of the sea from the fresh water of the feeder rivers, but then all went quiet…

Suddenly, right next to us, about ten metres from our boat, a full adult Minke Whale surged to the surface, lifted its pointed rostrum and exhaled with an almighty “Whhooooooooosh!”

Minke Whale

An audible gasp echoed round our vessel, as we couldn’t quite believe our luck. Some of us at the front could even smell its breath; truly a ‘stinky’ Minke! Its next surface was a little further away, but for the passengers onboard this had been the defining moment, a close encounter like no other, where one of the planet’s most enigmatic creatures allowed us to observe it in an exceptionally intimate fashion.

The journey back to the harbour provided yet another opportunity to study the Fulmars as they zipped past at head height, but a few were provided with a closer view than they were perhaps comfortable with as the Fulmars appeared to be seeing how close they could get without quite managing to tap someone with a wingtip. So close were they, that the rushing air could be heard as they passed; an astonishing show of aerial mastery. No Blue Whales (apparently they required a longer full-day boat trip further out in the fjord), but a wildlife spectacle nonetheless; we were all more than satisfied.

Back on dry land we ate lunch in a local restaurant and had time to visit the nearby ‘Whale Museum’. Intrigued, but somewhat concerned, Emma and I cautiously investigated, and made our way along the very informative and interesting exhibits of whale bones, skeletons and dried baleen as well as a showcase on rescuing stranded cetaceans. But then we found the section on whaling. Harpoon heads adorned the cases and photographs depicting the slaughter of Minke Whales by the Icelandic whaling fleet turned our stomachs. Having spent a thrilling three hours watching Minke Whale in their natural habitat, the reality of what these animals face came crashing down upon us and we left in a sombre and contemplative mood.

Luckily, the sight of Godafoss Falls seen during a brief stop on the return to the Minerva brightened everyone’s day, and not even the heavy rain shower (to be known as ‘liquid sunshine’ from here on) could prevent us from reminiscing about our moment with the live Minke…

Godafoss Falls

Icelandic Sheepdog

And as the day came to a close, the MV Minerva sailed further north, around the north eastern tip of Iceland, and in doing so crossed into the Arctic Circle. As we crossed 66° 30’ north we all raised a glass to toast Neptune and asked for smooth sailing over the next few days. A moment to celebrate and a chance for Emma to make final preparations for her lecture tomorrow on the History of Whaling in the North East Atlantic.


Minerva will be returning to Iceland and visiting St Kilda on MIN110721 (21 July - 05 August 2011).

The Magic of Vigur

After a comfortable night, where darkness never quite managed to defeat the lingering embers of daylight at these northern latitudes, the ‘Swans’ aboard the MV Minerva awoke to find a dramatic and imposing arena of volcanic snow-dappled mountains leering above the harbour of Isafjordur in north western Iceland.

A hastily eaten breakfast ensured that we were ready for our early boat ride towards the remote and rather insignificant Vigur Island, but the morning was to prove to be anything but insignificant…

Vigur Island

No sooner had our two boats departed the quayside than Emma and I spotted two Minke Whales from our separate vessels. Surfacing briefly a few times, they disappeared as usual beneath the calm fjord, and we were left wondering if they’d ever been there at all! The twenty minute crossing produced ‘dynamic soaring’ Fulmars effortlessly gliding alongside us, whilst Puffins zipped past, as if on some urgent errand. And as we docked and walked up the ramp we realised we’d arrived in a special place. The tranquility and serenity of this little island was immediately apparent as we listened to the gentle whistles of the Black Guillemots, the soft cooing of the Eiders, and the delicate haunting calls of the Arctic Terns. Velvety white Common Seal pups lounged on a nearby reef, their cute puppy faces and dopey eyes gazing at the strange visitors emerging from the boat whilst diminutive elegant Red-necked Phalaropes span in tight circles amongst the rockpool seaweed. We were speechless…

Common SealAdult Arctic Tern

We were taken on a tour by our guides to learn about the history of the island, but it was the birdlife which engrossed almost all of our ‘Swans’. Whether it was the cheeky Puffins hobbling around in the grass above their burrows, the brief view of a Snow Bunting perched on top of the Post Office roof, or the numerous Arctic Tern chicks begging for food from their parents (they seem to have had a more successful breeding season here than in Scotland) we were truly spoilt for choice. One thing was certain though: this was no insignificant little island!

Arctic Tern chick

After taking in the distant, yet impressive glacier (apparently the only ‘growing’ glacier in Iceland) and a delicious morning tea of homemade cake, it was sadly time to leave this magical and enchanted place. But the memories will live with all of us who were lucky enough to experience the profound beauty of Vigur Island.

Eider Duck

Eider Duck

Glacial Valley opposite Vigur Island

Back at the Minerva’s berth we were disappointed to see a whaling ship, with its explosive harpoon gun mounted on the bow, but at least it remained in port and wasn’t out hunting, although we have no idea if any others were out at sea. Several of the passengers were extremely alarmed to hear about Iceland’s continued involvement in commercial whaling and two of our ‘Swans’ returned to the ship devastated at having found Minke Whale on a local menu board.

The mood improved somewhat as we departed and headed further north before turning east to make our way along the spectacular northern Icelandic coastline, as two pods of White-beaked Dolphins put on a brief show. As we were bathed in sunshine the decks were filled with passengers, most of whom managed to get good views of these robust cetaceans, and everyone happily retired for dinner and the evening’s entertainment. Emma and I stuck it out on the Bridge as long as we could and managed to record our first sightings of Brunnich’s Guillemots; their diagnostic fine white bill line clearly visible as they flew past the ship’s bows.

White-Beaked Dolphin

Brunnich's Guillemot

View from Minerva

As we finally made it inside we overheard the Classical Concert rendition in the Darwin Lounge of The Sound of Music’s “My Favourite Things”, but were amazed to hear they had substituted one of the lines with “Seagulls with posh names!” My insistence to all of the passengers that there is no such thing as a ‘seagull’ is clearly having its desired effect…!

Minerva will be returning to Iceland and visiting St Kilda on MIN110721 (21 July - 05 August 2011).